特诺奇提兰 – 阿兹特克首都  
Tenochtitlán – the Aztec Capital  

科罗纳多CORONADO

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赫尔曼·杰·维奥拉,卡洛琳·马戈利斯编著,《变化的种子:一个五百年的留念》(华盛顿:史密森学会出版社,1991年),第34-39页:
Herman J. Viola, Carolyn Margolis, eds., Seeds of change: a quincentennial commemoration, (Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1991), pp34-39:

"西班牙人前往传说中的城市特诺奇提兰(从墨西哥湾沿岸),翻越墨西哥山谷周围的高山,穿过高耸的波波卡特佩特火山和伊斯塔西瓦特尔火山之间的小路,第一次看到这座伟大的城市,他们惊呆了,赞叹不已。大约四十年后,士兵伯纳尔·迪亚兹生动地记录了他们的惊讶。'在早上,我们到达一个宽阔的堤道,然后继续走向伊斯塔帕拉帕,后来我们看到了许多城市和村庄建在水里,其它一些伟大的城镇建在陆地上,笔直水平的堤道通往墨西哥,我们无比惊奇,感叹道这就像阿玛迪斯传说中的法术,因为雄伟的塔、寺庙和建筑从水中升起,而且都是用砖石建造的。我们的一些士兵问我们所看到的是不是梦。'
"As the Spaniards made their way toward the fabled city of Tenochtitlán [from the Gulf Coast] over the high mountains surrounding the Valley of Mexico, traversing a path between the towering volcanos called Popocatépetl and lztaccíhuatl, their first view of the great city startled and amazed them. Their astonishment was eloquently recorded by the soldier Bernal Diaz some forty years after the event. ‘During the morning, we arrived at a broad Causeway and continued our march towards lztapalapa, and when we saw so many cities and villages built in the water and other great towns on dry land and that straight and level Causeway going towards Mexico, we were amazed and said that it was like the enchantments they tell of in the legend of Amadis, on account of the great towers and cues [temples] and buildings rising from the water, and all built of masonry. And some of our soldiers asked whether the things that we saw were not a dream.'

特诺奇提兰的浮园耕作法
The Chinampas of Tenochtitlán

"这个看起来像是海市蜃楼的特诺奇提兰,占地约10平方英里,比16世纪的伦敦大好几倍,是世界奇观之一。高耸的塔楼和彩绘的建筑物在阳光下闪闪发光。这座城市坐落在一个湖中心的岛屿上,由一系列宽阔的堤道与大陆相连,通过一个巨大的引水渠提供新鲜水源,周围都是山谷中的浮园耕作(看上去像漂浮起来的花园)和野生动植物。浮园耕作产量惊人,阿兹特克人种植了种类繁多的蔬菜和花卉。只是,它们看起来就像飘在水上一样的。阿兹特克人通过在沼泽的湖岸挖沟渠排水和堆积肥沃的泥土形成田地,构建了他们的人工花园。一些考古证据表明,这种高产农业技术可能起源于更早的时候,但在阿兹特克统治时期,浮园耕作系统成为了他们食物供应的主要来源。由此不难理解,浮园耕作是由中央政府精心策划和控制的。除了浮园耕作之外,周围的山上还覆盖着梯田,这些梯田是由引水渠带来的淡水灌溉的。他们向城市供应其它品种的水果和蔬菜。
"This seeming mirage, Tenochtitlán, which covered an area of some ten square miles, several times larger than sixteenth-century London, was one of the wonders of the world. The high towers and painted buildings sparkled in the sunlight. The city was situated on an island in the center of a lake, connected to the mainland by a series of broad causeways, supplied with fresh water by means of a huge aqueduct and surrounded by chinampas [that appeared to be “floating gardens”] in a valley teeming with wildlife. In these extraordinarily productive chinampas, the Aztecs cultivated an enormous variety of vegetables and flowers. They only appeared to float, however. The Aztecs formed their gardens artificially by digging ditches in the marshy lakeshore to drain the water and piling up the fertile mud to form the field. Some archaeological evidence indicates that this highly productive agricultural technique may have originated at a much earlier time, but it was during the Aztec reign that the chinampa system became the principal source of their food supply. It is thus easy to understand that the production of chinampas was carefully planned and controlled by the central government. In addition to the chinampas, the surrounding mountains were covered with agricultural terraces, which were irrigated by fresh water brought by the aqueduct. They supplied the city with other varieties of fruits and vegetables.

"'让我们回到墨西哥的入口,'伯纳尔·迪亚兹写道。特诺奇提兰坐落于两个岛屿中的一个,另一个则被姊妹城市特拉特洛尔科所占据,通过修建堤道将两个城市与大陆以及其它周边城镇如特拉华克、特克可科和佐奇米尔科连接起来。在蒙特祖玛一世统治时期,在德克可可诗人之王内扎瓦尔考约特尔的指导下,修筑了一道巨大的堤坝,将这个最大湖泊的微咸水与岛屿周围的海水隔开。作家弗朗西斯科·德·加雷详细描述了精心设计的堤坝效果。'当南部的淡水湖通过考尔华庚和墨西卡尔钦戈的峡口,将多余的水注入墨西哥湖时,这些水就蔓延到了西部的这个湖泊,墨西哥湖,并完全填满......就这样,这盆淡水变成了一个鱼塘和各种水禽的栖息地。浮园耕作遍布其上,清澈的空间被快速划动的独木舟隔开,这个迷人首都的所有郊区都变成了繁花果园。'
"‘Let us return to our entry to Mexico,’ wrote Bernal Díaz. Tenochtitlán was situated on one of two islands, the other was occupied by its sister city Tlatelolco, with causeways connecting the two cities to the mainland and other surrounding towns like Tláhuac, Texcoco, and Xochimilco. A huge dike, constructed during the rule of Montezuma I, under the guidance of Netzahualcoyotl, the poet-king of Texcoco, separated the brackish water of the largest lake from those surrounding the islands. The writer Francisco de Garáy described in detail the effect of the masterfully engineered dike. ‘As the lakes of fresh water to the south poured their surplus water into the lake of Mexico through the narrows of Culhuacan and Mexicaltzingo, those waters spread through the western lake, the Lake of Mexico, and completely filled it ... . In this way the basin of fresh water was converted into a fish pond and a home for all sorts of aquatic fowl. Chinampas covered its surface, separated by limpid spaces which were furrowed by swift canoes, and all the suburbs of this enchanting capital became flowery orchards.’

"特诺奇提兰的中央神圣管辖区比特拉特洛尔科的更大更宏伟。这个广场是帝国的宗教和行政中心。它被巨大的金字塔所主宰,其中有两座分别供奉于维兹洛波切特利和特拉洛克的神庙,还有一些较小的金字塔供奉于羽蛇神和他的对手特斯卡特波利卡。在圆形金字塔的一侧,摆放着一系列木制的架子,里面装满了祭品牺牲者的头盖骨,供奉着风之神埃卡特尔。在这个巨大的庭院里,总共有70多座建筑。在第二封写给西班牙国王的信中,科尔特斯描述了最重要的中心广场,其宏伟和壮丽程度无人能描绘出来,因为它是如此得巨大,以致于在其围墙高筑的内部,一个大约五百个居民的小镇能很容易地建立起来。城墙的四周非常优雅,有非常大的房间和走廊,是男性牧师们居住的地方。塔有四十座之多,每座塔都非常高,最大的一座塔有五十级台阶通向塔的主体部分;最重要的是,这些塔比塞维尔大教堂还要高。
"The central sacred precinct of Tenochtitlán was larger and more grandiose than that of Tlatelolco. The square was the religious and administrative center of the empire. It was dominated by the enormous pyramid with twin temples dedicated to Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc, with smaller pyramids to Quetzalcoatl and his rival Tezcatlipoca. A series of wooden racks filled with the skulls of sacrificial victims stood to one side of the round pyramid to the god of wind, Ejecatl. In all there were more than seventy buildings within the enormous court. In the second letter written to the king of Spain, Cortés described the central plaza, ‘the principal one, whose great size and magnificence no human tongue could describe, for it is so large that within the precincts, which are surrounded by a very high wall, a town of some five hundred inhabitants could easily be built. All round inside this wall there are very elegant quarters with very large rooms and corridors where men priests live. There are as many as forty towers, all of which are so high that in the case of the largest there are fifty steps leading up to the main part of it; and the most important of these towers is higher than that of the cathedral of Seville’ (Pagden 1986).

"在他对自己所遇到的文化的长篇描述中,可以明显看出他对这位墨西哥征服者的深切钦佩。‘这些人的生活几乎和西班牙人一样。尽管他们在那里很和谐、很有秩序,但考虑到他们还是有点野蛮,缺乏对于上帝的认知,与所有文明国家隔绝,看到他们在所有这些事情上取得的成就,确实是值得称道的。’
"The profound admiration of Mexico’s conqueror is apparent in his lengthy descriptions of the culture he had encountered. ‘These people live almost like those in Spain. and in as much harmony and order as there, and considering that they are barbarous and so far from the knowledge of God and cut off from all civilized nations, it is truly remarkable to see what they have achieved in all things.’

特拉特洛尔科的市场
The Market of Tlatelolco

"科尔特斯和他的部下受到了亲切的欢迎和盛情的款待,并陪同参观了岛上的许多城市,他们把这些城市比作威尼斯。当贝尔纳尔·迪亚兹描述特诺奇蒂特兰的姐妹城市特拉特洛尔科时,他无法抑制自己的惊讶。这里的巨大市场给他留下了特别深刻的印象。那么多的人,那么多的货物,并且秩序井然,使我们大为吃惊,因为我们以前从未见过这样的场面。陪同我们的首领充当向导。每一种商品都单独存放,并标明了固定的位置。我们从金、银、宝石、羽毛、披风和刺绣品的商人开始。然后还有卖印第安男奴和女奴的......接下来还有其他商人,出售很棒的的布料和棉花,以及捻线的物品,还有卖可可豆的。他继续列举商品:绳子、拖鞋、野生动物皮、蔬菜和药草、家禽、兔子、鹿和幼犬,‘每种陶器都有上千种款式,从大水罐到小水壶,这些都有自己的位置。’他还谈到了蜂蜜、木材、木块和长凳、木柴、树皮纸、烟草、油膏、染料、盐和石刀、铜制、黄铜和锡制的斧头、葫芦和涂过彩的罐子。‘但愿我能说出所有销售的东西,但他们的数量是如此之多,质地各异,大市场与周边拱廊挤满了人,两天内你是逛不完的。’
"Cortés and his men were greeted with kind if guarded hospitality, treated to great riches, and escorted on many royal tours throughout the island cities, which they compared to Venice. Bernal Díaz could not contain his amazement when he described Tenochtitlán’s sister city, Tlatelolco. Here he was especially impressed by the great market. ‘We were astounded at the number of people and the quantity of merchandise that it contained, and at the good order and control that was maintained, for we had never seen such a thing before. The chieftains who accompanied us acted as guides. Each kind of merchandise was kept by itself and had its fixed place marked out. Let us begin with the dealers in gold, silver, and precious stones, feathers, mantles, and embroidered goods. Then there were other wares consisting of Indian slaves both men and women.... Next there were other traders who sold great pieces of cloth and cotton, and articles of twisted thread and there were cacahuateros who sold cacao.’ He goes on to list the merchandise: ropes and sandals, skins of wild animals, vegetables and herbs, fowls, rabbits, deer and young dogs, ‘every sort of pottery made in a thousand different forms from great water jars to little jugs, these also had a place to themselves.’ He also remarked upon the honey, lumber, blocks and benches, firewood, amatl (bark) paper, tobacco, ointments, dyes, salt and stone knives, axes of copper, brass, and tin, and gourds and painted jars. ‘I could wish that I had finished telling of all the things which are sold there, but they are so numerous and of such different quality and the great marketplace with its surrounding arcades was so crowded with people, that one would not have been able to see and inquire about it all in two days.’

"市场上精心划分的区域和固定的位置充分说明了阿兹特克社会的多样性和复杂性,它集中化管,它有无数形形色色的工艺专家,它的社会划分为贵族、平民和奴隶三个阶层。从某种意义上说,市场是阿兹特克人的话语,是这个社会定义和谈论自己的方式。市场上出售的各种商品也反映了特诺奇提兰与之进行贸易的许多不同地区。多年来,帝国各地都建立了贸易网络,长途贸易把商人送到了离帝国很远的地方。他们向南远至中美洲,向北远至美国西南部的普韦布洛人。有一个阿兹特克羽毛商人的儿子,他陪伴父亲走东闯西,是第一个向西班牙人讲述锡波拉七个城市故事的人。阿兹特克的贸易是由一个叫做波奇提卡的世袭商人阶层负责的,他们经常在士兵和皇权的保护下乘坐长途车队远行的。在蒙特苏马统治期间,波其德卡变得非常富有和强大。有些贸易是国家支持的,因此带有明确的政治意味,因为波其德卡经常充当皇帝的间谍、大使和代理人。显然,波其德卡总是在城镇中的市场上做买卖。因为需要长途跋涉,所以他们通常销售那些高价值、低体积的物品。许多历史学家认为,在这个帝国的形成过程中,贸易先于进贡产生。商人们为了寻找更多样化的商品而走得越来越远。他们之后经常随之而来的是征服者的军队。
"The market with its carefully marked divisions, its ‘fixed places,’ speaks volumes about Aztec society, its complexity, sophistication, centralized polity, the enormous variety of craft specialists it produced, and the division of the society into classes of nobility, commoners, and slaves. The market was in a sense an Aztec discourse, the means by which this society defined and talked about itself. The variety of goods sold in the market also reflects the many and diverse regions with which Tenochtitlán traded. Trade networks had been established throughout the empire for many years, and long-distance trade sent merchants far outside the imperial domain. They traveled as far south as Central America and as far north as the Pueblos of the American Southwest. The son of an Aztec feather merchant, who had accompanied his father on journeys, was the first to tell the Spaniards tales of the seven cities of Cíbola. Aztec trade was carried out by a hereditary class of merchants, called pochteca, who often traveled in long caravans protected by soldiers and the power of the emperor. During Montezuma’s reign the pochteca had become rich and powerful. Some trade was state supported and, therefore, had definite political overtones, since pochteca often served as spies, ambassadors, and agents of the emperor. Apparently pochteca always traded at market places within towns. Because they often traveled great distances they usually dealt in high-value, low-bulk items. Many historians believe that trade preceded tribute in the formation of this empire. Traders in search of more varied merchandise traveled farther and farther afield. They were often followed by conquering armies.

日落
Sunset

当时伟大的蒙提祖玛勋爵害怕第五太阳的末日即将来临,伯纳尔·迪亚兹描述说,‘他大约四十岁,身材匀称。他有一双漂亮的眼睛,外表和举止中流露出温柔和必要时的庄重。他非常干净整洁,每天下午洗一次澡。他有许多情妇,都是酋长的女儿,他有两个伟大的卡西卡作为他的合法妻子。他今天穿的衣服,直到四天后才会重新再穿。’ 科尔特斯写道,‘感受蒙提祖玛年代[原文如此]的服务和那些令人瞩目的辉煌和权力,我一直没能搞清楚蒙提祖玛的领土范围,但是在二百个联盟里面,他的使者从北到南,所有城市都服从他的王国,领土几乎是和西班牙(帕戈登 1986)一样大。伯纳尔·迪亚兹也写了很多章节,来描述蒙特祖玛的动物园,饲养鸟类和动物的建筑,以及它们在夜间可怕的叫声。他对居住在蒙特祖玛家庭的人数和类别都感到惊讶,有织布匠、金银匠、羽毛工匠、舞蹈演员、杂技演员,以及阿兹特克皇帝宫廷里的其他艺人。
The great lord Montezuma, by then fearful that the end of the Fifth Sun was upon him, was described by Bernal Díaz as ‘about forty years old, of good height and well proportioned.… He had good eyes and showed in his appearance and manner both tenderness and, when necessary, gravity. He was very neat and clean and bathed once every day in the afternoon. He had many women as mistresses, daughters of Chieftains, and he had two great Cacicas as his legitimate wives.… The clothes that he wore one day, he did not put on again until four days later.’ Cortés wrote, “Touching Mutezuma’s [sic] service and all that was remarkable in his magnificence and power, … I have not yet been able to discover the extent of the domain of Mutezuma, but in the two hundred leagues which his messengers traveled to the north and to the south of this city his orders were obeyed … that his kingdom is almost as big as Spain’-(Pagden 1986). Bernal Díaz also wrote many pages describing Montezuma’s zoo, the buildings that housed birds and animals, and their frightening cries in the night. He was amazed at the number and variety of people who inhabited Montezuma’s homes—the weavers, gold and silversmiths, feather artisans, dancers, jugglers, and other entertainers in the court of the Aztec emperor.

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